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10. DECK FITTINGS

Detailed Treatment of Deck Fittings—How to Make and Fix them, Fully Illustrated with Line Drawings, Photographs and Action Pictures.

Deck fittings, in the ordinary way, comprise various components used on or about the decks which can be fixed in place when the model is otherwise complete; but on the Royal Albert this course cannot be followed exactly, nor is it easy to determine what is, and is not, properly described as a deck fitting.

However, the bulk of the fittings shown on the model, and those on the drawings, are grouped together in this chapter, with other cognate matters. It is desirable, however, that the reader should fully appreciate that most of the chapters in this book are devoted to the construction of Royal Albert and the whole should be read in conjunction and referred to from time to time during the progress of the work.

The actual model shown in the photographs is simplified, but all the details are shown on the working drawings, plates Nos. 3, 4 and 5; and in addition, a number of details which are not on the actual model referred to are given in the form of line drawings, so that anyone can make as completely detailed a model as may be desired. For example, Royal Albert has a solid hull below the level of the upper gun deck, but the working drawings  show the lower decks  and the fittings thereon, to enable any interested reader to construct a good sectional or partly sectioned model, or to represent the lower decks in any other way. In such an event, the hull must be plank-built, or carefully carved from the solid, and the lower decks fitted, complete with every detail, before those above are finally in place. For the sake of convenience, the whole of the deck fittings on the Royal Albert, as shown in the photographs, are first mentioned, then follow some notes on construction and references to the more detailed fittings previously mentioned.

Commencing from the bows, there are the figure-head, stringers, gratings, knight-heads and beak-head. The figure­head is a difficult thing to make, the usual plan being to carve it from a piece of lime wood, boxwood or ivory and attach it to the stem-head, but a simpler plan, adopted on this model, is to cut out the stem-head to the proper profile, as described in Chapter VII., page 74, then to build up the body of the lion by means of layers of Bristol board, each cut to an appropriate outline. After these have been gummed in place and the adhesive has set, they can be carved or shaped with a sharp penknife.

The crown is built up by attaching semi-circular shaped cards horizontally on top of the side cards, and the spaces above filled in with plastic wood. The whole is then varnished and after it is dry a final shaping and modelling is imparted by means of sandpaper and the pointed blade of a pocket knife. The deck of the beak-head and the gratings which fill in the spaces between the figure-head and the stringers are cut from 3-ply Bristol board; the deck and the framework or beams are cut from one piece, and grating slots are separate narrow slips of card gummed to the underside of the beams. The fully detailed work at the bows is shown in figs. 71 and 72, p. 80. The knight-heads are two small square wooden posts, their lower ends rounded off and driven into holes drilled in the hull, their upper ends shaped by filing and sandpapering, and the two connected together by a cross bar near the top.

The forward side of the bulkhead is decorated by applied strips of card and the two projections formed with semi­circular sectioned wooden pieces glued in place. At. each side are strong posts, made of square "stripwood" shaped as shown in fig. 93 and on the working drawings, which should be referred to for all dimensions, proportions and the detailed positions of the parts. Between these corner posts and just above the forecastle deck is a handrail built of small square-sectioned wood; the transverse rail is fixed first and is sprung into place sufficiently to cause it to curve upwards to match the camber of the deck.

Fig. 93. Details of the Beak-head.

The vertical pieces are then cut to length and fixed in place with adhesive. Practically all these small wooden parts can be made from thin wood cut to shape with the fretsaw planed up as requisite, and the model­ling accomplished by filing, or by the use of small rolls of sandpaper of suitable section. Fastening is accomplished mainly with prepared adhesive, such as Seccotine or Tenasitine and wherever the wood is thick enough a fine fretwork nail, a cabinet pin, or an ordinary small household  pin point should be driven in with a small hammer to impart additional security.

Immediately behind the rail and posts are the catheads, which are shaped from wood, drilled at the outer ends for the tackle ropes, and fixed to the forecastle deck so that they incline forwards and upwards.

These and other fittings on the forecastle deck are clearly shown in fig.   94,   together with  the   figure-head  and  the gammonings.

Fig. 94. Fittings on the Forecastle Deck.

Those visible in this photograph are the cavils, guns, handrails on the ship's side, and along the centre the two bitts with the hole for the foremast between them, and the galley funnel and the belfry.

The bitts consist of vertical posts and strong cross bars, all made of stripwood and assembled with adhesive, the parts being held between fingers and thumb as shown in fig. 95 while the adhesive sets. The posts should be fitted through holes pierced in the deck, the square hole being readily formed by first drilling a hole through the wood and then pressing the square bradawl into it; but take care to keep them all in line. The length of the posts should be adjusted as required, and any surplus cut off at the bottom, as the upper part of the post has to be shaped as shown in the drawings. The galley chimney is built up with three pieces of card, one being the base, which rests flat on the deck, the other forming the sloping  face,   and   the  third   piece,   after  it  has  been  bent, represents the front and the two side pieces.

Fig. 90. Assembling the Main Bitts.

The whole is fixed together with adhesive and when dry is cleaned up withfine sandpaper and painted a dull grey-black colour.

The belfry can be as elaborate an affair as desired, and is often heavily carved and ornamented; such a pattern being shown in  the detail   drawings  (fig. 96), but the simplified pattern shown in the photographs is quite effective. This consists of two square pieces of card connected near the corners by little wooden columns. From the centre of the upper card is suspended a tiny bell procured from a child's toy, or one shaped from wood and painted a deep bronze colour.

Fig. 96. Full Details of the Belfry and Ship's Bell.

The roof of the belfry is made by sticking a half-round sectioned piece of wood across the centre of the card and adding similarly sectioned pieces at each side. The ends of all these pieces ' have to be slightly hollowed, and when completed are painted and outlined to represent carved work.

Handrails are made in various ways; those around the forecastle quarterdeck and poop decks consist of a toprail made of ¼ in. by ⅛ in. "stripwood" with rounded edges, raised above the bulwark by little strips of square-sectioned wood, and the parts assembled with adhesive on all joint faces. Commence by fixing the middle of the length of the rail with a fine nail, then press the two ends inwards to the requisite curvature and fix them with fine nails. When the curvature is too great to allow of this the rail must be sawn to shape from wood J in. thick, finished on the edges with the spokeshave, and rounded off by sandpapering.

The cavils are strong posts, represented on the model by small pieces of square sectioned wood glued in place and neatly shaped at the top.

Fig. 97. Working Drawings of the Anchors.

Before leaving the bows mention can be made of the anchors, fender, cables and cathead gear. The latter is a simple tackle, the block being stropped and having a hook on the underside. The cable or hawser is a stout piece of string; the fender is made with a core of paper with crochet silk wound round it, and the whole attached to a short length of cord by which it is suspended from the ship's side. The anchors on the model are made of wood and cardboard, with a metal ring. The wood parts are sawn to the shape as shown in fig. 97 with the fretsaw, the flutes or flange pieces on the anchors being cut to shape from cardboard and gummed in place.

The shank is made from sycamore 1/8 in. thick; the stock or cross bar is shaped from stripwood 5/16 in. square; the ring in the end of the shank is bent to shape from wire about 1/32 in. diameter. When assembled and painted the result is a remarkably realistic accessory.

The anchors rest on the channels and are supported and retained by chains and cordage as clearly shown in the detailed drawing (fig. 98) and in several of the photographic views.

Fig. 98. Detailed Drawing of the Anchors Stowed in Place.

Progressing along the ship, it will be noted that the quarterdeck is partly supported on columns, which can very readily be made from turned wood obtainable from Messrs. Hobbies, Ltd., and their agents. This has only to be cut to length, the pieces being slipped into place as clearly shown in fig. 99 and secured with adhesive; the detailed fitting is shown in fig. 100. The only fitting shown on the forward part of this deck are the bitts and handrails; the posts for the latter being made of shorter pieces of the same turned wood stuck in place on the deck and the handrail cut to shape from one piece of card, then painted to represent mahogany, and stuck in place on top of the columns.

Fig. 99. Fitting the Columns to the Quarterdeck.

Fig.  100. Details of the Quarterdeck Columns.

The handrails at the stairways sweep round and down as shown in fig. 101, and can either be cut from one piece of card or veneer or can be built up of separate pieces.

Fig.  101. Half Plan  of the Quarterdeck.

There are sundry cleats and belaying pin racks (fig. 102), attached by glue and pins to the inner sides of the bulwarks, these parts being shaped from thin wood, and the belaying pins represented by pins or fine brass nails, driven halfway through the wood.

Fig. 103. Half Plan of the Poop Deck.

The pro­portions and whereabouts of all the details on the poop deck are shown on the detail drawings, fig. 103 and fig. 104, on the folding plate No. 5, and on the cross-section.

Fig. 104. Cross Sectional Elevation of Poop Cabins and Other Details.

Fig.  105. The After Decks and Whipstafi Shelter on Royal Albert.

At the rear of the quarterdeck is a small erection shown in place in fig. 105 and detailed in fig. 106, which houses the whipstaff or steering gear. At the period of this model the whipstaff was still in use although the steering wheel had been introduced, and a few years later became universal; the whipstaff has been chosen because of its ease of repre­sentation, but the steering wheels are shown on plate No. 5 and in detail in fig. 107.

Fig. 106. Details of Whipstaff Shelter.

At the stern of the ship are other raised decks and deck houses all of them clearly shown in figs. 104 and 105; they can be constructed on the lines already described for other deck erections. Skylights and hatches as shown in several photographs are readily constructed from flat pieces of thick card, suitably painted and lined in accordance with the drawings. Although not a deck fitting the entry port on the ship's side is included here on account of its similarity of construction.     

Fig. 107. Details of Steering Wheels and Stand.

In the simplified form as shown in fig. 108 the fitting as an whole is built up of thin Bristol board and gummed into a rectangular recess carved in the hull side, shown in fig. 61, page 81, and described in Chapter VII. The diagram (fig. 109) gives the outlines of the pieces needed, which have only to be cut to shape, bent along the dotted lines, gummed together and painted.

Fig. 108. The Entry Port on the Ship's Side.

Fig.  109. Outlines of the Parts for the Entry Port.

Drawings of a fully detailed entry port are given in fig. 110, which will be found very helpful to those who wish to make a model complete in every particular. The treads on the ship's side are made in a similar way to the chessruns, either with strips of thin wood or card.

Fig. 110. Fully Detailed Entry Port for a Scale Model.

The guns are a very important item, and even when only some of them are visible—as in the present model—their construction calls for a fair expenditure of time. Small guns can be bought ready made but it is difficult to get the exact thing, and there is certainly more interest and credit in making every part of the model.

When a small turning lathe is available the barrels can be turned to shape and size in the usual way, either from hard­wood or brass. When this useful tool is not at hand an excellent substitute method of shaping the gun barrels is to file them up in a specially made "jig" (shown in use in fig. Ill) which pictures it and the first operation. To make the jig, take any odd piece of wood about 3 or 4 inches long and f inch thick, and on the end grain thereof make a shallow V-shaped groove reaching almost to the right hand end.

Next drive four ordinary French or wire nails into it, as shown, placing the first at the right hand end of the groove, and just behind it, so that when a small round file is placed up against the left hand side of the nail and a piece of 3/16 in. diameter circular sectioned hardwood is resting in the groove, the file willmake a groove in it near to the end if the file is pushed backwards and forwards while the wood is rotated by the thumb and fingers of the left hand. To prevent the file working along the wood drive a second nail into the jig at the left hand side of the file. Place two other nails similarly, but let the fourth be at the extreme end of the gun barrel, and the third about 3/16 in. away from it towards the muzzle end of the gun barrel.

Fig. 111. Jig for making Gun Barrels, First Stage.

The second operation is to take a warding file and use it vertically as shown in fig. 112 to make a shallow neck or sinking in the wood to represent the breech end of the gun. In this picture the groove at the muzzle end as made by the round file is clearly shown, while the warding file is seen as it appears to the eye of the worker while shaping the breech end.

Fig. 112. Second Stage of Making Gun Barrels.

The wood used for the gun barrels should be of any hard material such as ash or beech, and the length should be equal to 21/2 times the length of a gun barrel, so that by turning it end for end two barrels can be shaped from the one piece and a small portion left between them.

Fig   113. Tapering the Gun  Barrel in the Jig.

This and the third shaping operation is clearly shown in fig. 113, where the warding file is in use to reduce the middle part of the barrel and to make it taper towards the muzzle. After the gun barrels have been filed to shape in this way they are finished by rotating the wood briskly by the left hand while the right hand holds a piece of fine sandpaper against it, thus rounding off the hard edges and imparting a smooth surface.

Fig. 114. Drilling Gun Barrels for the Trunnion Pin.

When shaped, the barrels are cut to length and the breech ends rounded off with sandpaper.

The hole for the trunnion has then to be drilled, and the same jig is employed (as is shown in fig. 114), but a piece of strip metal is screwed to the jig and bent over at the top so that a guide hole can be drilled through it exactly on the centre line of the groove and at the proper distance from the muzzle. A barrel is then placed in it and the hole drilled, as shown in the picture, by means of a small hand drill. The trunnions are made of pieces of match stick whittled to size and glued into place. The whole should be painted a dull black, and for this purpose use a thin "eggshell" black paint, or some of the fine matt black sold for painting the interior of cameras and other photographic appliances, an ordinary black paint being too thick and imparting a clumsy appearance to the finished article.

Fig. 115. Finishing the Gun Carriages.

The gun carriages are made with cardboard sides gummed to a strip of wood which forms the bottom part, the arrange­ment being very clear from fig. 115, which shows how the ends should be sandpapered to make them quite flat and smooth. The best way to make a batch of these gun carriages is to stick the side pieces in place on a long strip of wood; allow the adhesive to dry, then paint the whole and cut to length. Clean up the ends of the wood strip and then glue the barrels to the tops of the carriages.

The wheels are made by taking a 3/16-inchwad punch and making circular punchings in thin card; these are then blacked and when dry are gummed to the lower corners of the gun carriages. A breeching tackle is represented by sticking a loop of soft cotton line to the end of the breech and subsequently gumming the two outer ends to the bulwarks or ship's side.

The best way to fix the gun is to place the hull on its side with the  deck nearly vertical  as shown in fig. 116; put a trace of adhesive on the bottom rim of each wheel and a* more generous quantity on the end of the gun carriage, put the barrel through the portholes, see that it is central, and then press it into firm contact with the bulwarks and deck.

Fig. 116. Fixing the Gun to the Deck.

There are several different lengths of gun barrel and various heights of gun carriage according to their calibre or weight of shot, but these particulars   and the full details for completely modelled guns are given on the diagrams, figs. 117 to120, the latter showing the gun tackle in full detail.

Ladders are always difficult things to model nicely, there are many ways, but the adopted plan, seen in operation in fig. 121, has proved effective and simple.

Fig.  121. Building the Ship's Ladder.

First cut the two side pieces or strings to their proper length and cut the ends to the needful bevels; use thick card, or preferably veneer, for the sides, and thin card for the treads. The treads are prepared by cutting the card into strips of the requisite width and then to exact length ; that is, the exact distance between the inner faces of the side pieces.

Now take any odd piece of smooth wood and on it fasten the two sides with pins as shown, and place between them a strip of wood exactly the same width as the length of the treads, and file one end to the proper bevel. Pick up a tread with a pair of tweezers, dab the ends of the tread into a little pool of adhesive such as Seccotine, put it between the side strips and push it into proper place with the end of the strip of wood; place all the other treads in the same way, leave the whole to dry, and then remove it from the board and paint as desired.    Details of a more elaborate staircase are given in fig. 122, which is intended for the main staircase on a fully detailed model. It can be built up in a similar way and assembled in its place on the model.

Fig. 122. Main Staircase shown in full Detail.

Fig. 123. The Capstan in place on the Deck.

The capstan seen in fig. 123 can be filed to shape in much the same way as the gun barrels and little strips of card gummed on to represent the whelps or projections which grip the rope. The capstan treads on the deck are made from strips of card painted a light brown and gummed in a circle on the deck.

The stern lanterns are made with a central part consisting of a piece of wood suitably tapered, the windows represented by paintwork and the various projecting parts cutto shape from thin card and gummed into place.

Fig.   124. Stern Lanterns in place.

The brackets are preferably made of wire, the various pieces bent to shape and the whole neatly soldered together. The simplified form made as described  is seen in  fig. 124, while the fully detailed lantern is shown in fig. 125, and a sectional view showing the mode of construction in fig. 126.

Fig. 125. Full   Details of the Stern Lantern.

Fig. 126. Sketch showing mode of Construction.

Fig. 127. Ship's Boat.

Fig. 128. Ship's Dinghy.

The ship's boats shown in figs. 127 and 128 are carved from the solid, the thwarts and seats being made from veneer glued into place and the whole nicely painted. The boats rest in chocks glued to the deck, and may be secured to them by a lashing or merely glued in place.

The ensign staff is made from wire filed to a taper and finished with a truck or ornamental knob provided with a small hole for the passage of the flag halyards.

Fig. 129. Half Plan of Forecastle Deck.

Fig. 130. Sectional View looking towards the Forecastle.

A few words in conclusion about those deck fittings not already mentioned, others which can be more completely modelled, and those which would be required if the ship were shown in section or were complete in detail.    A longitudinal section through the hull and a half plan are given on plate No. 5 and other sectional diagrams in figs. 129, 130, and 131.

Fig. 132. Fire Buckets and Rack.

These show the whereabouts of all the fittings and give a good deal of detail information.

Fig. 133. Bittacle.

Fire buckets and rack are shown in fig. 132, the bittacle in fig. 133, fire engine in fig. 134,
while details of main and jeer capstans are given in fig. 135.

Fig. 134. Fire Engine.

Fig. 135. Alain and Jeer Capstan*.

Fig. 136. Sketch showing Construction of Gratings.

Fig. 137. Ship's Pumps.

Fig. 138. Gunport Covers.

Gratings and  the method  of their construction  are shown in fig. 136, and the ship's pumps in fig. 137. Fully detailed gunport covers or lids, with lifting chain, are shown in fig. 138, while a method of making dummy ports  for a solid hull is shown in fig. 139;

Fig. 139. Dummy Gunport and Cover.

Fig. 140. Gun Muzzles for a Dummy Hull.

Fig. 141. The  Knight-heads.

A plan that can  be adopted when it is desired to represent the  gunports  and to  show the gun muzzles, fig. 140, on a solid hull.   

Fig. 142. The Bitts.

Fig. 143. Galley Chimney.

Fig. 144. Forecastle Ladder.

Knight-heads are shown in fig. 141;   bitts in fig. 142, and the galley chimney in fig. 143.    The forecastle ladder is shown in fig. 144, and details of the rudder pintles in fig. 145, as suited to a fully detailed model.

Fig 145. Sketch showing Rudder Pintles.

The construction of all these parts follows on the lines advocated for others of a similar character; readers who have made the model as already described should have no difficulty in making them.

The details are reproduced full size for Royal Albert in figs. Nos. 73, 97, 106, 109, 110, 117, 122, 125, 137, and twice full size in figs. Nos. 96, 100, 102, 107, 118, 119, 133, 134, 135, 138,  139,   140,  141,  143,   144.

The full size drawings can therefore be used direct, the others can easily be reduced by halving all dimensions where necessary.

Details shown on figs. 71, 72, 85, 98, 104, 127, 128, are reproduced half full size; while fig. 132 is 2\ times full size, and fig. 142 is \\ times full size.

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